The stunning Spanish town where locals ‘live under a rock’ that’s a European hidden gem | Travel News | Travel
Spain is one of the most popular holiday destinations among Brits – but many seem to only frequent the same few spots a year.
The southern region of Andalusia appears at the top of many tourists’ bucket lists and is home to iconic cities such as Seville, Granada and Malaga.
However, the region has far more to offer than this, meaning a lot are missing out on the country’s hidden gems.
One such gem, tucked away in the province of Cadiz, has an incredibly unique landscape and, as such, has been voted one of the most beautiful towns in Spain.
Setenil de las Bodegas, found directly between Seville and Malaga, is known as “abrigos bajo las rocas”, translated as shelters beneath the rocks.
This is because its stunning whitewashed houses are carved straight into the rockface, with its huge overhangs bound to leave your mouth gaping with astonishment as you look upwards to take in the incredible views.
Despite it only having a small population of around 3,000 people, the town has been inhabited since prehistoric times.
Setenil de las Bodegas earned its name for two special reasons. During the period of Reconquista, it is said it took the Christians 15 days to capture the castle – Nazari – and over seven attempts to take back the village. This gave rise to the name “Setenil”, derived from the Latin “Septem Nihil”, meaning “seven times no”.
Secondly, it received its name Bodegas, meaning “wineries”, from its once thriving wine trade. Today, the town is most known for its delicious almonds and olives, picked from the surrounding fields of olive trees.
While Jerez is the closest airport, it is very small and mainly runs domestic flights. Most, therefore, travel from Málaga – a journey which takes about an hour and a half. It is also just 30 minutes from Ronda.
From here, you can hire a car to give you more flexibility, enjoying the added benefit of the beautiful drive to the town, particularly between Setenil and Olvera (another white village in Andalusia) through olive groves and sunflower fields.
It is also possible to book day tours from Málaga, but these tend to arrive when the town is at its busiest and hottest. The best time to visit is usually in the morning and evening during the summer, as temperatures can reach up to 40C.
Spanish lunchtime is generally between 2 and 4pm. After this, locals will typically go for a siesta, and restaurants will not reopen again until around 8pm.
With numerous homes now converted into holiday lets and hotels, visitors have the chance to experience life in this extraordinary setting for more than just one day. Hotel Villa de Setenil is located in the centre of the historic town, with each room boasting a balcony and views of the town’s white-washed homes.
This also gives you the chance to explore every nook and cranny, including the Moorish Nazari Castle, the Plaza de Andalucía – a perfect spot to stop for lunch with restaurants serving tapas or the local delicacy of asparagus soup – the ironically-named main street of Calle Cuevas del Sol (“caves of the sun”) and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (“caves of the shade”), the narrowest street.
Finally, Calle Herrería is the oldest street, known as the most romantic spot in Setenil. Couples often get a photo together under the plaque “Besame en este Rincon”, translating to “kiss me in this place”.