There is a chicken and chips restaurant in London that is owned by a very unlikely 80s music legend. 

You’d not know who is behind the Mikkeller on Exmouth Market from walking by. And the same is true for most of the celebrity-owned joints around the UK. It’s only when wandering into  Ian McKellen’s The Grapes and spotting the Gandalf staff behind the bar, or flicking through the menu of James Blunt’s Fox and Pheasant to find the ‘You’re Beautiful’ cocktail, that the penny drops. 

But you have to look harder still to work out who is the songster behind Mikkeller, an international bar brand boasting over 250 locations spanning 37 countries. 

The Exmouth Market venue fits seamlessly into the fashionable street, featuring its distinctive yellow striped canopy, rust-effect branding and outdoor seating where patrons can gather when the weather permits. However, that wasn’t the scene during my January visit, when I sought refuge from the downpour to sample the 40 million record-selling musician’s offerings.

Two of Mikkeller’s London sites are quietly backed by none other than 1980s music legend Rick Astley, who started working with the Danish bar brand in 2018.

The two-storey establishment houses both a bar and restaurant, alongside a brewery capable of producing 7.5 hectolitres of beer per batch. The on-site brewery keeps the bar stocked with exceptionally fresh beer whilst filling the space with the pleasant scent of malt and hops.

I enjoyed my meal beneath the substantial chrome-finished beer tanks and the somewhat theatrical towers of stacked potato sacks, which gave the venue character, though the notion of an exposed, Pompidou Centre-inspired pub does feel somewhat 2010s. Regrettably, the menu contains no nods to Astley (at least none that I spotted), though it does boast an impressive selection of quality beers.

A pint of Freshly Squeezed IPA for myself, alongside a draft Lucky Saint for my Dry January companion, set us back £14.30 combined – fairly typical pricing for this corner of London.

Devotees more familiar with the Lancashire singer’s extensive repertoire might spot potential Astley references in the current beverage selection, which lists: Grand, Market Best, Never Enough, Jerry the Berry, Grandma’s Fridge Cake, DDH PCP, Market Weiss, Wonky Chi, Mic Drop, Common Ground, Black Pearl, Beech Life and The Golden Rule. Notably missing was the artist’s own creation, the ginger-infused lager Astley’s Northern Hop.

Beyond his musical pursuits – which encompass voice work for The LEGO Batman Movie, fundraising efforts for cancer charity Maggie’s Centers and working as a driver for his father’s market-gardening operation – there’s little in Astley’s professional history suggesting he’d venture into the chicken and chips trade. Or excel at it quite so impressively.

Yet both statements ring true. Mikkeller’s offerings are exceptionally tasty and excellent value for money.

The three of us dined for £55 and departed feeling thoroughly full and content. This stands in stark contrast to my earlier visit to James Blunt’s establishment in early January, where the eye-watering costs forced me to prioritise my wallet over my appetite.

For the same amount at Astley’s venue, we enjoyed two servings of crinkle-cut chips, crispy plant-based nuggets, a vegan fried chick’n burger, and two proper chicken sandwiches.

Both sandwich varieties came served on fluffy brioche ‘Texas toast’ and were loaded with ‘Comeback Sauce’, pickles and vinegar coleslaw. It’s evident that Mikkeller has fully embraced cutting-edge plant-based meat technology, as the chick’n delivered all the crunch, texture and juiciness you’d expect from something that’s never seen the inside of a henhouse.

The traditional chicken option was equally “excellent”, according to my dining partners. Additional menu offerings include chicken parmigiana, Caesar salad, and fried chicken goujons.

Mikkeller isn’t likely to scoop any accolades for culinary creativity in the near future. It’s an establishment that, aesthetically speaking, shares more DNA with Five Guys and BrewDog than the intimate celebrity-run boozers previously mentioned. However, what it does offer is a roomy, relatively central London brewpub with a cracking, wallet-friendly menu that’s ideal for a bit of Saturday afternoon treat. To sum up the experience: Pretty good.