When I heard of a picturesque island that’s hailed as ‘Europe’s answer to Hawaii’, I couldn’t help but be skeptical of just how much it would look like the iconic US spot with its world-famous beaches and dense greenery.

However, just hours into arriving in Madeira, it was clear that this Portuguese island more than lives up to the nickname.

Rising out of the Atlantic and close to the North-West coast of Africa, it wouldn’t look out of place as a backdrop for Disney’s Moana or Mario Kart’s Donkey Kong Island.

It has the same type of dramatic green landscapes, but also a unique culture worth diving into; I don’t know many other places that could make a dedicated Banana museum interesting (more on that later).

The island is rugged, volcanic, intensely green and yellow with bananas, and aggressively steep. So vertical, in fact, that at one point our tour guide casually mentioned it was “almost 45 degrees”. He wasn’t exaggerating. Walking anywhere feels like a workout – especially when the sun is beating down – so if glutes are your goal, skip Pilates and book a flight.

Luckily the food more than helps when it comes to replenishing your energy stores. From the first dinner, it became clear that Madeira is a fish lover’s haven. Every menu offered black scabbard fish, usually paired with a banana. It sounds wrong, but it works, and with hindsight, you can see why it’s the island’s go-to dish.

I washed it down with poncha, the locals’ signature mix of sugar cane rum, citrus juice and honey. It tastes harmless, but take it from an Irishman who’s well acquainted with a hangover; pace yourself, especially if like me you plan to explore the next morning.

Madeira, as my tour guide eloquently put it, isn’t about where you are going but how you get there. I wouldn’t recommend driving yourself. Instead, book a jeep tour. I spent two days with Adventureland exploring the Southwest and Northeast coast, taking every back road there was possible. The guides tailored the drive to my interests and before I knew it, we were ducking into nooks and crannies of the island I’d never have found alone – cliff edges, hidden viewpoints and tiny villages folded into the hills.

Meanwhile, the link between Madeira and bananas is as strong as that between Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. They’re planted all over the island, so it only seemed fair to make a pit stop at the Banana Museum while driving past. Here, you’re encouraged to wander at your own pace, sampling banana-flavoured food and drink, including beer and ice cream.

Inside one particular gazebo – you’ll know the one if you ever visit, you can’t miss it – the bananas are lined up like the screaming plants in Harry Potter. The only break in the long line of pots is the scurry of tiny lizards.

Away from the history and beautiful landscapes, Madeira’s laidback vibe carries across to its nightlife. It may not be a party destination, but that’s part of the appeal. It’s for the new generation of travellers; those who want a great time, UV rays and a sociable cocktail. You can have music, late dinners, a crisp pint and still wake up early to get that picture-perfect Instagram post above the clouds.

I visited during the island’s Carnival Week, where crowds lined the streets for miles while floats passed by in a blur of colour and choreography, and music that’s almost impossible not to dance along to. However what struck me was the overall tone; it felt more like a parade than a carnival. For a start, the crowds are seated, so you’re not jostling for a space from which to take in the spectacle. The streets were packed but the atmosphere was joyful and respectful; dare I say it, revellers at other carnivals could learn a thing or two. Even the morning after, everything felt so clean; you’d never have known that thousands had been partying the night before.

In hospitality settings, napkins were handed over with tongs and straws had extra protectors over the top of them. It sounds basic writing it down now, but it’s the kind of everyday consideration that is often overlooked. In the same breath, Madeira also felt very safe as a solo traveller.

Madeira is for those who want to earn their pint at the end of the day. And if your calves grow two inches while you’re there? That’s just a bonus.

Book the holiday

For more information on what to do in Madeira, please visit visitmadeira.com.

Madeira is easily accessible from across the UK, with regional departures from Belfast, Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, East Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester and Newcastle, as well as London Gatwick and Stansted.