Standing upon a deserted shoreline, gazing across the dancing light and shadows of Loch Ness whilst the sun descended over the Scottish Highlands, feature writer Kirsty Bosley inhaled deeply and acknowledged she was experiencing one of the most enchanting days of her life.

Just the previous evening, she’d been stuck in congestion at Birmingham’s Five Ways island, stressed and anxious about missing the Caledonian Sleeper, the train that lulls you to sleep in the city and rouses you in the Scottish Highlands. She picked the train that would transport her to Inverness from Brum, following a 10-hour journey on the dream train and affording her roughly 12 hours there before boarding her pre-booked return. The purpose was straightforward: To see whether booking the Caledonian Sleeper was worthwhile given it has only recently begun collecting passengers in Birmingham.

Kirsty has given her opinion on what it was really like and how she stuck to a budget…

I was determined to accomplish absolutely everything I possibly could during those 12 hours, activities for families, trails for ramblers, intimate experiences for couples and tranquil moments for contemplation in nature, like the one I was savouring on Dores Beach, reports Birmingham Live.

Furthermore, I was keen to do everything I could whilst spending minimal money, surviving on Tunnocks Teacakes and Irn Bru and modest portable snacks we gathered along the way. The day’s largest expense turned out to be the most worthwhile: a £42 hire car from Enterprise which had been pre-paid.

We picked it up following a 15-minute walk from the railway station and attempted to navigate the entire circumference of Loch Ness (approximately 70 miles) within a single day.

On £15 worth of petrol, we managed the complete circuit, taking a clockwise route that began with tears of happiness as the loch emerged into view whilst Taylor Swift delivered the bridge from Cruel Summer with perfect timing.

We stopped, lowered the windows and danced beside the road with excitement beneath the morning sun before beginning our ideal day.

A Loch Ness masterclass

Following our jubilant pause, our initial destination was the Loch Ness Clansman Hotel to view the plaque commemorating Ozzy Osbourne and the occasion he spent wading in the loch at night, searching for Nessie with son Jack.

Driving feels effortless when you’re treated to an uninterrupted panorama of the Highlands. In Drumnadrochit, at the hotel where the monster tales originated, we made our second-largest purchase of the day, £15 admission to The Loch Ness Centre where David Tennant provides narration for the entire story.

Progressing through each chamber, we discovered how the speculation began, the commotion, the heritage and topography of the region, the Scottish folklore and mythology that enabled the story to seem remarkably authentic. We discovered that science, in fact, cannot definitively rule out the existence of a creature lurking in the depths of this body of water so profound that it could not be filled by all the other freshwater lakes, reservoirs and rivers in England and Wales combined.

Following this revelation, I kept a more vigilant watch over the water, half-expecting to see her enormous neck emerge in a friendly greeting to passing Brummies.

The sheer fascination ignited within us by the centre’s masterclass made the admission fee worthwhile, as every subsequent free activity was enhanced by our newfound knowledge.

In no time at all, we reached Urquhart Castle, a military ruin perched on the edge of the water.

The walk-up entry price is £16, and whilst I was certain it would be spectacular to explore, we decided to save it for a future visit now that we were sure we’d return. Boat trips are available to the castle, so that went on my ‘to-do’ list.

Mystical forests and breathtaking views

Instead, we continued along the waterside A82 to Invermoriston, a place that feels as though it’s been lifted straight from an adventure film.

The Old Bridge, straddling the roaring falls of the River Moriston as it makes its tumultuous journey to join Loch Ness, is like a scene from a fairy tale. Despite being part of the renowned Great Glen Way trail, it felt like a magical secret due to the scarcity of other people around.

We parked up (free, but donations are welcomed to support, as with many public toilets along the route) and strolled down into the woodland, pausing at the old Summer House Victorian folly to soak in the scene as people would have done years ago, watching salmon battle their way upstream.

Wandering over soft clusters of reindeer lichen, glowing white, pausing to watch the rapids and keeping an eye out for squirrels filled me with tranquillity. It’s a must-visit for any traveller – I wish every Brummie could experience it.

By the time we reached the South Shore, it was 2pm, half our journey around the loch completed in just four hours.

A brief pause for photographs and laughter ensued before we rounded the southernmost point and were met with a view so breathtaking we had to halt the car – the Suidhe Viewpoint.

A family of tourists arrived and we exchanged few words, instead sharing silent mutual recognition that we were immersed in an unforgettable, life-affirming moment. We swapped cameras to help each other capture proof of our presence there.

The wild beauty of our surroundings became almost overwhelming as we continued on our journey.

Wildlife and waterfalls

We encountered a majestic stag who turned to regard our car. It felt like being inside an illustration from the cover of a tin of special shortbread biscuits.

Giant birds, possibly including a golden eagle, soared above us. Next came the Falls of Foyers, a 140ft cascading waterfall nestled within woodland inhabited by elusive red squirrels. Tunnocks Teacakes and Irn Bru proved insufficient sustenance for the challenging descent, though the Waterfall Cafe offered sausage rolls and refreshments to replenish energy levels.

With daylight fading and Boleskine House (previously owned by Aleister Crowley and Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page) shut to visitors (though we passed by regardless, simply to acknowledge it), we departed in pursuit of an individual we’d discovered at The Loch Ness Centre.

Dusk – One final adventure

Steve Feltham is a renowned ‘Nessie Hunter’ who abandoned his family enterprise, partnership and residence to move from Dorset. He has resided along the loch’s shoreline since 1991 and has remained committed to sighting ‘the monster’ ever since.

Truthfully, however, his tale is about departing from circumstances that fail to satisfy your soul and pursuing the life you desire. I desperately hoped to encounter him before nightfall.

We reached his dwelling as twilight began painting the sky above Dores Beach. He was absent, yet I chose to linger after dog-walkers departed, hoping he might return.

The stony shoreline is flawless, the surroundings magnificent. I contemplated whether Steve required a fresh neighbour, though I recognised my obligation to return to Birmingham to compose this account.

Both Steve and Nessie remained beyond our reach, only one possessing verified existence yet both surrounded by mythology I yearned to explore further. Returning to return the rental car and board what I’ll forever refer to as the ‘Loch Ness Express’, we physically left it all behind.

However, I was certain my spirit remained in Invermoriston, still on the hunt for red squirrels. I plan to retrieve it on the next available journey on the Caledonian Sleeper. This time, I’ll be sure to bring sandwiches.