Hidden cove perfect for swimming with dark past | UK | Travel
The historic spot is hidden within the cliffs (Image: Northumberland Coast AONB)
Nestled amongst the cliffs in a cove close to Howick in Northumberland lies this striking bay, which holds both historical and environmental importance.
Rumbling Kern is an isolated haven characterised by dramatic iron-stained rocks and a small beach that emerges at low tide. The distinctive positioning and structure of the cliffs gave rise to its name, as they generate a rumbling noise during stormy conditions.
As waves crash into the bay and collide with the rocks, a profound and unsettling sound reverberates beneath, echoing like distant thunder. This auditory phenomenon is unique to the location and lends an eerie quality to the already remote destination.
One keen explorer who documents their journeys on YouTube, Wilderhope Adventures, noted that locating the cove isn’t particularly challenging, though it cannot be found on maps without entering the postcode for the neighbouring farm.
She said: “I’ve seen pictures of this, but this is very, very cool. I can imagine this being a really cool swimming spot because it’s very protected.”
History
Yet its captivating characteristics extend beyond the physical, as historical records indicate it served a fascinating role in the smuggling trade.
Given its coastal location and remoteness from populated areas, the cove became a favoured site for landing illicit cargo, predominantly whisky. These merchants would subsequently move their contraband along the remainder of the Northumberland shoreline.
The neighbouring settlement of Boulmer earned notoriety as the ‘smuggling capital’ during this era, with the kern serving as merely one component of an extensive underground operation.
Bathing House
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It sits in the village of Howick (Image: daverhead via Getty Images)
The inlet provides stunning panoramas of the Bathing House, perched serenely on the coastline as a 19th-century residence constructed by the former prime minister.
Originally owned by Charles Grey (2nd Earl Grey), whilst the adjacent Howick Hall served as his childhood residence. This property functioned as a gateway for the family to enjoy the natural environment.
Throughout the time he lived there, the earl commissioned the expansion of the bathing area in accordance with tidal patterns, creating additional saltwater pools. On the upper level of the house, they even established a vantage point where his wife could watch their youngsters enjoying the purpose-built pools beneath.
Today the property is available for holiday lettings as a cottage accommodation for groups and relatives, with bookings filling up remarkably swiftly. It continues under the stewardship of the Howick Trustees Ltd, a charitable organisation.
Howick Hall

Howick Hall Gardens and Arboretum (Image: Howick Hall)
A brief journey from the stunning Bathing House and inlet lies Howick Hall, a Grade II listed property which was home to the Earls Grey. The identical prime minister, after whom Earl Grey tea takes its name, resided there throughout his lifetime, and it is currently accessible to visitors.
Howick Hall was originally constructed in 1782, though devastatingly, a blaze ravaged much of its interior in 1926, necessitating substantial reconstruction. The expanding family departed after the 5th Earl Grey’s passing during the 1970s.
In 1973, Lord Howick transformed the west wing into the family residence, where they remain to this present day. The ground floor welcomes visitors to explore and discover the rich heritage of both the family and the estate spanning generations.
The hall’s grounds feature stunning gardens established by the 5th Earl Grey alongside an arboretum stretching across more than 65 acres. Nestled within is an ideal spot to pause for refreshments at the Earl Grey Tea House, where time-honoured customs endure.








