From his beloved chippy in the heart of the town, Will Huntley enjoys a prime position to gauge the seaside town’s economic health. His Mermaid Fish Bar sits amid expansive seafront car parks – and last summer they were at maximum capacity.

During a peak season blessed with unrelenting sunshine, this came as little shock. More surprisingly, Barmouth’s parking bays are now bustling throughout the winter months, with Will spotting unfamiliar faces in his establishment.

“We’re getting a lot more South Walians here than we used to,” he said. “I’m not sure why – perhaps it’s a legacy of the Covid pandemic when people were restricted where they could travel. We’ve long had returning visitors from the Midlands who fall in love with the place. Being located between Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) and Cader Idris, more people are coming from Manchester too. Irrespective of the weather, I think people want to get away from their fast-paced lives in the cities and go to somewhere they can chill out.

“With its large beach, estuary and mountains, Barmouth is ideal, and there are lots of independent shops and restaurants popping up. We have everything here, and things are definitely looking up.”

There was once a period when the small town in Gwynedd in north-west Wales depended almost entirely on traditional holidaymakers, reports North Wales Live. This is now shifting as fresh waves of tourists uncover a location beside the breathtakingly stunning Mawddach estuary, where Cardigan Bay encounters the soaring summits of Eryri (Snowdonia).

Watersport pursuits continue to flourish and golfers are attracted by Gwynedd’s picturesque courses. Walking has become a significant market: the 10-day Barmouth Walking Festival in September, which this year includes 38 guided walks, is now amongst the largest events of its type in the UK.

Eyri National Park lies just some 500 metres away, offering straightforward access to the Rhinogs (Rhinogydd), considered one of the best-kept walking secrets in Wales. No less demanding than the crowded honeypot peaks of northern Eryri, they are considerably quieter and deliver some of the UK’s finest hill-walking.

Support from different categories of visitors has generated a virtuous cycle within Barmouth’s food and retail sectors. You can still discover souvenir and trinket shops, and Barmouth maintains the quirky and saucy characteristics that are so typical of seaside towns: this is a resort that provides everything from trolls to pink sheep and a cafe with a name that always makes people snigger.

However, independent enterprises are emerging everywhere, many with an upmarket appeal to mirror the town’s evolving clientele. Identifying Barmouth as an emerging property hotspot in 2022, The Sunday Times noted the resort was continuing its “designer makeover” from “bucket-and-spade to Farrow and Ball”, highlighting the arrival of “some smart restaurants and interesting independent shops”.

Amongst those providing a more refined, specialist-focused proposition are gift boutique Two Hoots and interior furnishings retailer Pieces for Places, celebrated for its popular spoof of a John Lewis Christmas advertisement. From November 2022, photographic exhibition space Verdun House Gallery has been showcasing traditional and striking imagery from the locality, strengthening the town’s creative and cultural character.

Meanwhile, service-oriented enterprises such as Edan Hair and Beauty suggest a developing tourism market – frequently a subtle sign that a destination is drawing extended visits and returning guests.

Nowhere has Barmouth’s evolving reputation been more apparent than within its culinary landscape. During 2025, the fashionable Fanny Talbot gastropub earned inclusion in the Michelin guide, with its “informal fine dining” charm led by MasterChef finalist Owen Vaughan since the establishment launched in July 2023 on the previous Lion Hotel premises.

Throughout the rest of the town, Bistro Bermo secured a Good Food Award Gold Seal for 2025/26, whilst Dylan’s Restaurant – an established, prize-winning North Wales brand – opened near Barmouth in spring 2025, demonstrating faith in the town’s twelve-month sustainability. It was quickly accompanied by Dylan’s “window into Wales” general store on Barmouth high street.

Popty’r Dref bakery on Jubilee Road is reportedly generating queues extending beyond its entrance. Launched in September 2024, earlier that year its sister bakery in Dolgellau was recognised as amongst the globe’s finest in La Liste’s Pastry Awards.

Even the resort’s traditional seaside cuisine has garnered national recognition: in June 2024, the Daily Mail included Will’s Mermaid Fish Bar amongst Britain’s 37 finest chippies.

A notable indication of this burgeoning culinary assurance was Foxglove, a diminutive eatery with merely 10 seats providing a five-course plant-based tasting menu. Blending wilderness with artistry, foraged components featured reindeer moss, pine cones, sea greens and peculiar fungi such as elf caps.

Regrettably, the establishment shuttered last summer following its co-owner’s return to her native Kent. 

It was this developing food and retail landscape that, in 2023, led The Times to highlight Barmouth as one of the UK’s finest places to reside. At the time, its judges declared: “This beautiful resort, with its famous viaduct and stunning mountain backdrop, is rapidly turning from a kiss-me-quick holiday getaway to a sophisticated coastal retreat.

“It’s now a great place to enjoy the scenery all year round, helped by an influx of interesting shops and restaurants, such as the beachfront Celtic Cabin, which serves the best street food in the country.”

The Celtic Cabin has since changed ownership and operates as The Beach House.

A definitive indication of the town’s transformation was the five-star Visit Wales ratings bestowed upon Barmouth accommodation this month. One was awarded to The Tilman, a boutique hotel and bar, whilst the other went to The Belmont Barmouth, an art deco seafront holiday residence.

The latter’s success stands out in a challenging marketplace. The Belmont Barmouth provides nine bedrooms accommodating up to 18 guests, positioning it squarely within the premium lodging sector for visiting families and larger parties.

Built for multi-generational holidays and special occasions, complete with a cinema room and games room, booking levels have remained strong despite the complexities of catering to sizeable groups.

Owner Liz Davis reckons there’s a broader shift towards less frequent, extended, superior-quality breaks. “It shows that Barmouth’s accommodation market is increasingly quality-led rather than volume-driven,” she said.

After a bustling summer, this winter’s persistent rainfall has dampened morale across Britain’s coastal towns, many already struggling with cost-of-living pressures. Barmouth is defying expectations: last year, National Geographic highlighted the resort amongst the UK’s most thrilling seaside destinations.

Furthermore, its beach and snow-dusted peaks were recently crowned the UK’s finest location for Christmas walks – surpassing the likes of Glastonbury Tor in Somerset and Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh.

Liz Davis believes a transformation is taking place – though not necessarily intentionally. “For years, Barmouth has been quietly doing what many British seaside towns struggle to achieve – evolving without losing its soul,” she said.

“The town is now entering a new phase, one defined by quality, confidence and a growing appeal to discerning domestic travellers. Barmouth is being recognised as much for its quality and experience as for its scenery.”

Liz went on: “This is not reinvention for reinvention’s sake. The town has not attempted to reposition itself artificially. Instead, standards have risen organically, driven by independent businesses, sustained investment and a growing alignment between what visitors want and what the town now provides.”

Barmouth Ferry provides a seasonal passenger vessel service across the estuary for connecting transport to Fairbourne via its miniature railway. An alternative route crosses the historic Barmouth Viaduct, once again accessible to pedestrians following its £30 million restoration.

Both locations have been catapulted into the media limelight ahead of Sky’s Under Salt Marsh debut on 30 January. Featuring Sir Jonathan Pryce, Rafe Spall and Yellowstone’s Kelly Reilly, the six-episode crime thriller focuses on a community under threat from the ocean, somewhat reflecting the challenges facing both Barmouth and Fairbourne.

Despite the casting of English performers in principal parts, Under Salt Marsh has received critical praise prior to its launch. It might not be long before a fresh audience discovers their affection for Barmouth.