I’m no stranger to seaside resorts. Born and raised in Norfolk, I’ve enjoyed all of my home county’s beaches and coastal towns. But I’d never experienced a seaside city until I recently visited Brighton and Hove.

Brighton appears to strike a balance between being a functional home for locals and a major tourist attraction. It also seemed like it would still be good fun outside of the summer, with more to recommend it than just a beach, fish and chips, Mr. Whippy, and arcades. I took the trip down on a warm but overcast Saturday, hoping that it wouldn’t be too busy, and was pleasantly surprised with what I found.

On my way down to the beach, I wandered through the beloved and winding 18th-century Lanes, filled with lovely old jewellers, independent clothes shops, packed cafes and breakfast spots (I grabbed a gorgeous almond croissant at Sugardough), and pretty pubs, all with lots of outdoor space to enjoy the sun. I also popped into a ‘creativity sale’ at Brighton Unitarian Church, with artisans selling everything from crystal jewellery to wood carving art. Considering this was my first visit, I knew I had to make a stop at the Royal Pavilion and the Dome. The stunning former royal residence was built for George, Prince of Wales, in 1787 as his summer retreat, and is in the Mughal style, making it stand out from the rest of the city.

I worked my way down to the seafront to find a decently busy beach, despite the lack of sun. Lots of families were setting up their camps for the day and renting loungers to get off the pebbles. I was surprised by the number of people in the water, with adults swimming lengths, children splashing in the shallows and lots of paddleboarders further out.

The pier was next on my list, and I wandered into the arcades to find a room packed with people enjoying the classic seaside attraction. The rides were equally busy, with families queueing for their turn.

I felt compelled to join in on the fun and got my fortune read by the nostalgic Zoltar machine, which told me that I was about to go on an adventure (fitting, I suppose, considering my day out. 

The beach was also home to revelry, with a merry-go-round and shops selling buckets, spades, and water shoes. One shop in particular mesmerised me: All at Sea. Outside, tubs were full of sparkling shells, and inside, I was almost tempted to buy a shell wind chime (before realising I had nowhere to put it at home and tragically having to leave it behind).

The intermittent smell of chips and doughnuts frying filled the air and eventually became too tempting. I caved and bought some for my lunch from Pier View (the doughnuts topped by ice cream for a full seaside experience), and enjoyed them sitting on the pebbly beach next to the pier.

I would also recommend trying the local seafood, which is widely offered and miles better than anything offered inland. I visited Rockwater and had dressed south coast crab, which was amazing (not seafood, but their dark chocolate mousse is also incredible).

But despite what a lovely day I had, I feel as though I probably wouldn’t go back. Being more used to a small seaside town, I mainly don’t think I’d be able to cope with Brighton at its peak. The city sees around 11.8 million tourists a year, according to Visit Brighton.

I also felt that the city outside of the beach, pier, and the Lanes, had seen better days. Like many other towns and cities across the UK, some of its less ‘important’ historic buildings seemed run down, and the main road leading down to the beach was home to many convenience stores and vape shops.

Those wanting a quieter beach day or seaside trip can pop just down the road to Hove. Though I’m sure it’s busy in warm weather, on this warm but overcast day, it was peaceful. 

The less well-known half of the city has a more low-key seafront, with a large green separating the road from the wide promenade and the line of sight blocked by cheerfully colourful beach huts. 

The beach has the necessary amenities for a beach day – toilets, an ice cream and drinks hut, and lifeguards. When I visited, there was only a handful of families enjoying the shore.